Disgusted by our pointless trip to Vatican City, we returned to the subway and decided to visit the Piazza de Popolo. It was a bit crowded, but I spied some green if we hiked up a staircase hill. I remembered (from studying my guidebook) it was Villa Borghese, Rome’s version of Central Park.
We climbed the stairs gaining shade, greenery and a respite from Rome’s bustle. The vista at the top was so completely worth it. Gorgeous rooftops of Rome. Made me start to like the city again.
We traipsed though the park and stumbled on a cute sandwich shop. We ate outside under heat lamps. Hot for me. Perfect for OL.
After an hour or two break, we returned to the city rejuvenated. Heading to the Barberini stop we searched for the Monumental Cemetery of the Capuchin Brothers. The guidebook didn’t give it any stars but it sounded so interesting. I mean a series of chapels with thousands of bones woven into Mosaic works of art–from the bones of 4000 Capuchin brothers. Wow.
Luckily Frommer’s 2011 Italy guidebook saved our butts and told us exactly where to find the bone church on Via Vittorio Veneto. Totally worth seeing. I didn’t know shoulder blades and a skull could be made into a butterfly. Or that vertebrae could be used as trim. Macabre? You bet. Worth 1 euro? Hell yeah.
This street also led to the Barberini Piazza (stunning fountain) and was littered with restaurants. We took note and planned to return for dinner. Then we skulk off to our hotel for some r&r. Two hours later, we returned to La Scala.
Located at the top of the staircase across the street from the bone church, this was a delish restaurant. I had proscuitto de parma and mozzarella and gnocchi with creamy tomato sauce and bacon. This was paired with the house chardonnay. OL had the chicken with peppers. For dessert, I devoured a lovely tiramisu. This was by far my best dinner in Rome with perfect ambience. Super fresh and tasty food. And the nicest toilettes too. I finally felt like I was having a Rome experience.